Washington, Oregon, British Columbia 2018
June 15-26, 2018. I managed to finish visiting all 50 states when Kathleen and I went to Hawaii in 2012. We’ve picked up a few more states for Kathleen since then but she was still at 47. She had yet to visit Washington, Oregon and Alaska. I thought a good summer trip would be to pick up Washington and Oregon to get her to 49 – as well as visiting Vancouver – somewhere I’ve always wanted to visit. We squeezed in Victoria, the capital of British Columbia, which allowed me to get better looks at the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Strait of Georgia. When I told Steve we were making this trip, he and Tanya decided to join us in Vancouver.
June 15, 2018. Seattle. The view of Elliott Bay in Puget Sound from the patio of our AirBnB
We stayed a few blocks from Pike Place Market.
I was drawn to the morels for $30 a pound but then spotted this black truffle. (If I had to ask, I couldn’t afford it.)
Pike Place Fish Market – where they throw the fish. The seafood at the dozen or so vendors in the market was all amazing. I wish I were cooking on the trip. They don’t actually throw the good fish. They throw one beat up fish that they then donate to the aquarium. You can see it hiding by the post.
We grabbed a snack at Elliott’s Oyster House. I’ve never seen such a selection in one place.
A quick cruise through Elliott Bay. One of the prettiest skylines I’ve ever seen.
Safeco Park was very nice and the Mariners rallied in the 8th to win 7-6.
June 16, 2018. After breakfast, we headed to the Space Needle.
The Space Needle is nearing completion of a major renovation. Part of the upgrades are replacing all the railings and grates with glass panels. It made for an amazing view. This is Lake Union. Float planes, house boats, and the craziest weekend boat traffic I’ve ever seen.
Seattle is a major cruise ship port. This ship totally blocked our view of the water from our apartment.
Looking down on the Museum of Pop Culture. It was one of the coolest Frank Gehry designed buildings I’ve ever seen.
The new design has glass benches. People were freaking out about how they leaned out. Kathleen got a good laugh at this woman actually lying on one.
Right at the base of the Space Needle is the Chihuly Garden and Glass. Dale Chihuly is a glass artist from Washington that I first saw when he had an exhibition at the Akron Art Museum (1998?).
His installations in the gallery were awe inspiring. Some of them were massive. These three pictures were different views from the same installation.
He works with teams of glass artists to perform his designs.
Pictures just don’t do this justice.
The glass is also in the garden.
This was one of the great and surprising museum experiences I’ve ever had.
The Museum of Pop Culture
The Museum of Pop Culture had some fun things in it but after the Chihuly it felt a little underwhelming and kitschy. The building is fantastic. Many, if not most, of the items in the museum are from Paul Allen’s personal collection. This is a dress from the Princess Bride (with Inigo’s costume behind it).
Wizard of Oz Guard Costume
French Knight helmet from the Holy Grail
Captain Kirk’s tunic. There were an amazing number of items here.
The monorail was built for World’s Fair in 1962. It has two stops. It’s not that practical but we rode it for the fun of it.
June 17. We went to the market in the morning to beat some of the crowds.
A good tourist stop – the first Starbucks.
Nearby was Beecher’s Cheese.
We had macaroni and cheese with Rainier cherries and iced coffee for breakfast. Delicious.
We had a short visit at the aquarium.
We took a cab south of town to a forge to make knives out of horseshoes.
We were each given half a horseshoe to start with.
We heated them in forges.
…and used hammer and tong to shape them on anvils.
Max, the owner, was an enthusiastic teacher.
Kathleen said I looked like “a smitty.”
My shaped knife before sharpening
Kathleen and Max with our finished knives
They are surprisingly sharp and it was a really fun several hours. I was shopping for knife forges later that night. I decided the sound of me hammering on an anvil would not be appreciated in our neighborhood.
The Center for Wooden Boats on Lake Union
We spent a couple hours just looking at the boats and watching the mayhem of the Father’s Day lake traffic.
I loved this steam launch.
We had a nice dinner on the waterfront at Anthony’s our last night in Seattle.
June 18. In the morning, we rented a car and headed to Oregon. Not long after crossing into Oregon, we saw a sign advertising berry pie at the Berry Patch Restaurant – about 20 miles ahead. Kathleen wanted some berry pie so we stopped.
In the restaurant, they had a small museum about the region and The Berry Patch history – and the history of the family of berries. We were ready for some berry pie. It's all about the berries here.
Our apple pie. They would only sell us apple pie. “Are you out of berry pie?” “No. We have some but those are for tonight. We had a big Father’s Day and we sold all of today’s pie yesterday.” “Can you cut one of tonight’s pie now?” (It was 3 pm.) “No. Those are for tonight.” They were very nice people and the apple pie was delicious. But, there was certainly something about the logic that goes into cutting berry pie that we just didn’t understand. Kathleen got a serious case of the giggles when the man sitting next to us was asked how he liked his pie. His terse response: “It’s fine. But it’s my least favorite kind of pie.” He obviously was there for the berry too.
I actually took this picture before we sat down. I was looking forward to some berry pie. They had a bunch of them.
The Rose River Inn in Astoria Oregon
The view from the breakfast nook
Near Astoria is Fort Clatsop where the Lewis and Clark expedition spent the winter of 1805-06. This is the second reconstruction but the expedition did such an amazing job recording most details of their journey that historians are pretty confident about the reconstruction’s accuracy.
I loved this and they had a great museum there that I would have spent a couple hours in if they weren’t closing.
We drove 20 minutes south to go the beach near Gearhart, Oregon.
There were several breweries in Astoria. We went to Fort George Brewery and had a great view of the Columbia River.
June 19. In the morning, we crossed the Columbia River. We stopped at a park called the Dismal Nitch where the Lewis and Clark expedition had almost run out of food in 1805. I took this panorama of the Columbia River because I was able to count 13 ships at anchor lined up in the river.
On our way to the ferry in Port Angeles, we passed through Sequim, Washington. In Sequim, there’s a Brit who is restoring a 1910 wooden yacht called Tally Ho. This is the view of Tally Ho under its shed.
Leo Goolden is making a YouTube channel of his restoration. It’s one of the YouTube sailing channels I watch while Kathleen is falling to sleep. She stays up for Leo.
I emailed him and asked if we could stop by for a short visit.
What he’s doing is truly amazing. I asked a lot of questions. Kathleen was mostly awe-struck.
He’ll be replacing almost everything on the boat. When I asked him if that still makes it the same boat, he told me that he’s just catching up on the maintenance that has been neglected for decades.
The new purple heart keel timber was a major character in several of his videos. Kathleen hoped to get some shavings but forgot.
He’s planning on sailing it back to the UK when he’s done “In two years.” It will likely take him longer than that, but “in two years” is his standard answer for how long it will take. When he casts off, it will be two years early.
Since the boat was built in 1910, before the Panama Canal, he feels like it’s not fair to sail it back through the canal. The plan he’s leaning towards is sailing through the Northwest Passage.
The lofting floor where he’s transferring the shapes from the plan to real size so he can make patterns for the frames.
I’ve always wanted to see the Strait of Juan de Fuca and we crossed it by ferry from Washington to Victoria, British Columbia. This is a view back towards Mount Olympus
Most of the passage was through cool fog.
But it cleared up before we got to Victoria well enough that I could see shore to shore.
This seemed to be the trip of tapas and cheese plates. Kathleen loves getting to try a bunch of different things.
Victoria inner harbor. If I were a west coast sailor, this would be a bucket list port.
The Empress Hotel overlooking the harbor.
June 20. Wednesday morning, we had some time to kill before heading to Vancouver so we sat and had coffee looking over the harbor and the Legislative Assembly of British Columbia.
They were tearing down a building across the street. Fun to watch.
We drove up to Swartz Bay to catch the ferry through the Strait of Georgia back to the mainland. This is the sister ferry to the one we were on.
It was some of the most beautiful scenery I’ve ever seen. It really made me wish my boat was in these waters.
We were picking Steve and Tanya up from the airport in the evening but we went to our AirBnB.
We were in the penthouse apartment in a hipster neighborhood called Gastown.
The view from our roof deck
June 21. The Steam Clock. Steve was underwhelmed.
We went to the Granville Island Public Market.
It was almost as great as Pike Place in Seattle. And it was certainly as crowded.
For some reason, I was jonesing for a Pork Pie. We found them here.
We took our goodies out on the docks in False Creek for a picnic. Tanya bought some lychee that she had to apply for a loan to buy.
Seriously, the best pork pie I’ve had outside the UK.
Oh, this is silly. I bought some chunky liverwurst and Steve bought some amazing pickles and some stinky Raclette cheese. We had a snack of that with some Weller Bourbon. It was a taste sensation and one of the most delicious things I had on the trip.
More Tapas at Salt – a really cool restaurant a few minutes from our apartment.
June 22. We took a Chinatown Culinary & Cultural Tour that was great fun.
The Chinese bakery where we got apple tarts. We went back later for a bunch of other stuff.
The last stop of the tour was in a tea shop where the owner hosted a tea ceremony. It was so nice that both Tanya and Kathleen bought Chinese tea pots – and all the accoutrements.
Later that evening, we went to Stanley Park for a stroll.
These totems are in the park.
We ate dinner at Ukrainian Village Restaurant. Fantastic. It reminded me of the food I ate in Russia in 2003.
I forgot how much I love borscht (not pictured) and Pelmeny. I’ll be looking for this near home soon.
June 23. We took the gondola to the Grouse Mountain. The highlight was the bear retreat. They have two grizzlies there.
Besides the grizzles, they had several conservation presentations.
They had a fun – and highly scripted – lumberjack show. Cheesy but infectious.
The view from the mountain was obscured by clouds but about half way back down it cleared up enough to see downtown again.
Even though we had a Chinese tea ceremony the day before, Tanya and Kathleen wanted an English high tea.
We ordered four different teas. Fun fact: the four teapots on our table are available for sale for $880 CA each.
Getting the description of Kathleen and Tanya’s tea plates.
Steve and I each had an order of “finger sandwiches.”
Maple Tree Square in the Gastown Neighborhood. You can see the red awning on our rooftop deck near the middle of the picture.
Gassy Jack Stature in Maple Tree Square
The view of the port from our roof
Venus by the Harbour Centre building
June 24. Steve and I are packed and waiting to leave for the airport.
After dropping Steve and Tanya off at the Vancouver airport, Kathleen and I headed back to Seattle. We stopped in South Surrey for lunch. It’s the last town in British Columbia before passing back into the U.S.
We took a scenic route along Chuckanut Drive on Samish Bay.
We spent the night in Everett Washington and ate dinner near the biggest marina I’ve ever seen. There were literally hundreds and hundreds of sailboats. Walking along the marina, I spotted Makana, an Ericson 32 very similar to my boat. It was named Thelonious when Christian Williams, the prior owner, sailed it from L.A. to Hawaii and back documenting the journey with videos and books that I’ve watched and read several times. The boat is practically a celebrity to me.
June 25. We toured the Boeing Factory. They didn’t allow any pictures in the factory but this panorama gives you a scale of the place. The assembly building on the left is the largest building by volume in the world. In the middle are about 20 planes ready to deliver. On the right is one of the four Dream Lifters that Boeing uses to transport parts – like wings from other factories to their factory here.
One set of wings for the 787 can fit in the Dream Lifter for their trip from Japan.
After Boeing, we went to the Flying Heritage & Combat Armor Museum. My main reason for going was to see this plane. It is a Goodyear FG-1D Corsair. There were a few variants of this WWII plane but this was built by Goodyear in the Akron Airdock. My grandma told me how when they were building them, the test flights would go over her farm. Occasionally, they would make emergency landings in my grandparents’ hay field. They’d call the factory and a tractor would make the 3-4 mile drive out to the farm where they’d fold up the wings and tow it back to the factory. It’s one of about 15 airworthy Akron Corsairs still in existence. They actually flew it 2 days before we were there.
This is a Higgins Boat similar to what was used on D-Day. Think Saving Private Ryan.
The Flying Heritage & Combat Armor Museum is largely funded by Paul Allen. Almost their entire collection is operational and I found it fascinating. This is a B-25J Bomber.
We had a couple hours to kill before getting to the airport for the redeye home. We stopped at Microsoft’s headquarters visitor center in Redmond. Paul Allen and Bill Gates business cards
They had a brief biography of all these people that were in the Microsoft staff photo from 1978. This photo is 11 of the 13 people on the Microsoft staff at the time.
Thanks for looking at the pictures.